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Since circular saws are the portable version of a table saw, they are not meant to be fixed to a table. However, the portability may be a disfavor if you are attempting to make precision cuts such as miters or other angles. To aid you make more precise cuts, you may build a circular saw table in your own shop. Step 1 Gather your materials which include a 3/4″ thick medium density overlay (MDO) in a 36″X16″ sheet, a 36″X8 1/2″ piece, a 36″X1″ piece, and two 36″X1 1/2 ” pieces, a pencil, ruler, jigsaw, eight strips of 1″X2″ wood, nails, hammer, drill, 1/4″ and 1/2″ drill bits, screws, circular saw, 1/2″ dowel, speed square, and 1/4″ carriage bolt. Step 2 Mark the midpoint 3/4″ in from the edge on the long side of the 36″X16″ MDO. Step 3 Using the ruler, mark a radius from this midpoint on that front edge. Next, draw a straight line 10 inches from and parallel to the back edge. Step 4 To cut out the table that you just marked, use the jigsaw to cut down the 10″ line, around the radius, and down the 10″ line on the other side. You now have the shape of the table. Step 5 Flipping the table to it is back, nail six strips of the 1″X2″ wood to all of the straight edges as the aid for the table. Step 6 Go back to the primary midpoint mark on the topside and drill a 1/2″ hole in which the dowel will be placed to serve as the pivot for the arm. Step 7 Down from the hole on this topside, attach two more 1″X2″ strips 10 inches long to serve as the fence for the guide. Step 8 Take the two pieces of MDO that are 36″X1 1/2″ and cut a 45-degree angle off of each end. With the angles facing inward, screw these two pieces onto the ends of the 36″X8 1/2″ piece of MDO. This makes the carriage with spacers. Step 9 Screw the 36″X1 1/2″ MDO to the edge of the 36″X4″ MDO at a 90-degree angle to fabricate a guide lip. Attach this assemblage to the help blocks of the carriage with screws. To make the opposite side of the guide, screw the 36″X2″ MDO to the other side of the carriage. The circular saw’s blade must pass through the gap as it follows the guide lip, but you may need to adjust the gap width for your queer saw. Step 10 Now, with the saw versus the guide lip and the blade in the gap, fix an opposite lip to keep the saw straight as it passing through the carriage by screwing on a 36″X1″ strip of MDO on the opposite side. Step 11 Flip this carriage over and measure down 7 inches from the top edge. Mark the midpoint of the width at this point and drill a 1/2″ hole for the dowel. Step 12 Removing the upper percentage of the carriage, place the base underneath the table and tap the 1/2″ dowel through both the table and carriage, not permitting the dowel to stick out past the carriage blocks. Then, reattach the upper portion of the carriage. Step 13 Slide the carriage arm as far right as possible. Putting the speed square among the arm and the fence at a 45-degree angle, drill a 1/4″ hole through the upper assemblage and tabletop to secure the arm with a carriage bolt. Do the same at the 90-degree and 45-degree left angle to make repeated angle cuts. Your circular saw table is ready to use. Place the wood to be cut versus the fence. Line up the arm to the angle that you want. Put the circular saw in the guide arm with a depth set so that you will only cut 1/8″ into the table. Make your cut. You may now make precise angle cuts time after time with your circular saw table.
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